Christmas Holidays; Dog Separation Anxiety
The Calm Plan Before You Pack a Suitcase
When we start packing for Christmas, most dogs don’t think “holiday.” They think: Something is changing… and I might be left behind. For dogs prone to dog separation anxiety, the suitcases, car keys, and last-minute routine changes can trigger distress days before you even leave.
This guide breaks down what separation anxiety in dogs really looks like, why it often spikes around Christmas travel, the risks of ignoring it, and a practical plan to help your dog cope—using training, environment, and gentle, food-based support.
The problem: Christmas “departure cues” can trigger panic
Dogs are pattern-detecting machines. Many start worrying the moment they see “departure cues” (suitcase, shoes, keys, you moving quickly). With true dog anxiety when left alone, distress can begin as you prepare to leave or soon after you go—often showing as vocalising, destruction, or toileting linked to separation from the owner.
Christmas adds fuel:
- You leave more often (shopping, events).
- You leave for longer (trips, overnight stays).
- Your routine changes (walk/meal times, guests, late nights).
- Your dog gets placed in new care situations (boarding/retreats, pet sitters).
And if your dog spent the year with you more than usual, sudden changes to “time left alone” can increase separation-related behaviours—research tracking those changes has shown measurable shifts in separation-related behaviours as leaving patterns changed.
Symptoms list: the signs people miss (and the ones they can’t ignore)
Not every distressed dog destroys the house. Some suffer quietly.
Common signs of separation anxiety in dogs include:
- Pacing, circling, restlessness
- Panting, trembling, drooling
- Whining, barking, howling
- Scratching at doors/windows; escape attempts
- Destructive chewing (often near exits or on owner-scented items)
- Toileting indoors despite being housetrained
- Not eating or engaging with food toys while you’re out
A key clue: these behaviours typically happen when you’re absent—not when you’re home.
Quick self-check: is it separation anxiety, boredom, or something else?
Be blunt with yourself—misdiagnosis wastes time.
It might be boredom/under-stimulation if:
- the behaviour happens even when you’re home, or
- the dog settles once they’ve burned energy, and
- exercise + enrichment reliably fixes it.
It might be house-training/medical if:
- toileting happens at random times (not mainly after you leave), or
- there are urinary/GI symptoms (vet check needed).
It might be noise fear if:
- panic aligns with storms, trucks, or neighbourhood bangs (and being alone makes it worse).
If you’re unsure, film your dog when you leave. Veterinary guidance often notes video can help confirm what’s happening when you’re not there.
Risk if untreated: why “they’ll get used to it” often backfires
For mild cases, some dogs improve with routine and training. But for genuine dog separation anxiety, “just push through” can make it worse.
Unmanaged distress can lead to:
- Self-injury during escape attempts (broken teeth, torn nails, scraped paws)
- Neighbour complaints (barking/howling)
- Property damage
- Escalating panic each time you leave
- Fear spreading to new contexts (car, crate, boarding)
Welfare and behaviour resources note that escape behaviours can cause injury and that the distress is tied to being left alone—not “naughtiness.”
If your dog is hurting themselves, this isn’t DIY territory. You need vet/behaviour support.
The solution: a Christmas “Calm Before You Go” plan
Real talk: there’s no single hack. The best outcomes come from stacking:
- Management (prevent panic rehearsals)
- Training (desensitisation + counterconditioning)
- Environment (safe den, predictable routine)
- Supportive nutrition (gut comfort + steady nerves)
- Professional help when severity demands it
Step 1: Stop accidental “panic practice”
Every time your dog panics alone, they rehearse the fear. Management means reducing full-intensity episodes while you train.
Options:
- Pet sitter / trusted neighbour visits
- Daycare (only if your dog enjoys it)
- Work-from-home rotation with family
- Take your dog with you for short errands when safe/allowed
- This isn’t “giving in.” It’s pausing the cycle so training can work.
Step 2: Train the leaving routine (small, boring, repeatable)
The gold-standard approach is desensitisation and counter-conditioning: exposing your dog to tiny pieces of your departure routine at a level that doesn’t trigger panic, while pairing it with something good.
Start absurdly small:
- Pick up keys → put them down → treat
- Put shoes on → sit down → treat
- Open the door → close it → treat
Then micro-absences:
- Step outside for 5–10 seconds → return calmly
- Gradually increase time, staying under the panic threshold
RSPCA guidance emphasises teaching dogs that being left alone is OK through gradual training—not sudden long absences.
Important: don’t “test” big jumps. If your dog stops taking treats or can’t settle, you’ve moved too fast—this can sensitise them (make it worse).
Step 3: Build a safe den (and use it when you’re home)
A safe den is not a punishment zone. It’s a predictable “I can relax here” space:
- Covered crate or quiet corner
- Bed + blanket + a long-lasting chew
- Your scent item (worn T-shirt)
Teach it while you’re home: send your dog there with a chew, sit nearby, then gradually increase distance.
Critical point: If your dog panics in a crate, don’t lock them in and hope. Confinement can worsen distress for some dogs, and escape attempts can cause injury.
Step 4: Pre-Christmas routine anchors (calm stays, even when life changes)
Pick 2–3 anchors you keep consistent through December:
- One walk at roughly the same time
- Meals at roughly the same time
- One daily quiet-down ritual (mat settle, chew time, lick mat)
Predictability lowers baseline stress and makes training easier.
Step 5: Support from the inside: Calm Support ("farmaceutical", not sedative)
If your dog is already on edge, supportive nutrition can help as part of the stack.
At Pure Love Pet Care, we created Calm Support as a farmaceutical supplement—real food ingredients, not “knockout” sedatives. It uses:
- Hemp seed meal to provide naturally occurring nutrients that support overall wellbeing
- Gentle prebiotic fibres (sugarcane + red sorghum) to support digestive comfort and the gut–brain axis
Why the gut matters: research increasingly links the canine gut microbiome and behaviour, with associations observed between microbiome patterns and anxiety-related behaviours.
Critical note (important): No supplement “fixes” severe separation anxiety on its own. The strongest evidence base is for management + desensitisation/counter-conditioning, and medication may be needed in severe cases under veterinary guidance.
How to use Calm Support before holiday travel
- Start 5–7 days before boarding, a pet sitter, or any big routine change
- Give daily with meals
- Pair it with the safe den + gradual alone-time training above
Benefits list: what “good progress” actually looks like
You’re aiming for:
- Your dog can settle after you leave (not spiral for 30–60 minutes)
- Less vocalising and pacing
- They’ll eat/engage with food toys when you’re gone
- “Normal” behaviour when you return (not frantic, not shattered)
Track progress weekly, not hourly and use a camera to verify.
A real-world example: the Christmas kennel “reset” that backfired
Milo is fine when the family is home. In December, suitcases come out, routines change, and Milo starts following his person everywhere. The family does a sudden 7-night kennel stay “to get him used to it.” Milo returns hoarse, clingy, and starts chewing the back door when left alone.
What changed the trajectory wasn’t punishment or longer absences—it was reducing panic rehearsals, training the leaving routine in tiny steps, and creating a predictable calm ritual before absences.
FAQs
How common is separation anxiety in dogs?
Estimates vary by definition and measurement, but large studies report separation anxiety signs in a meaningful minority of dogs (e.g., mid-teens percentages in some populations).
Should I ignore my dog when I leave or return?
Aim for calm, low-drama departures and returns. But don’t confuse “calm” with cold. If your dog is distressed, the solution is training and management—not withholding comfort.
Should I crate my dog when I’m away?
Only if your dog is comfortable and trained for it. If they panic in confinement or try to escape, crating can increase injury risk.
When do I need a vet or behaviourist?
If your dog self-injures, breaks teeth, tries to escape, won’t eat, or the problem escalates rapidly, seek professional help. Evidence-based protocols include management, desensitisation/counter-conditioning, and medication when needed.
The takeaway: give your dog a Christmas that feels safe
Your dog doesn’t understand “holiday travel.” They understand patterns, absence, and whether they feel safe.
This year, start early: train the leaving routine in tiny steps, build a safe den, protect routine anchors and layer Calm Support as gentle, food-based support.